10 years…
Returning to Velika Planina
That’s how long separates my first and my most recent visit to Velika Planina.
When I moved to Slovenia in 2014, it was Katja who first took me to Velika Planina. This plateau, perched in the heart of the Kamnik–Savinja Alps, was one of my very first discoveries in the country.
There is something truly unique about this place. I never thought I would return one day.
And yet…
Ten years later, just a few days before leaving Slovenia for good to begin a new chapter in Tuscany, I felt the need to return. As if some places quietly ask us to say goodbye.
This time, I wasn’t alone. Mana was by my side.

Where to Stay in Velika Planina?
We spent a few days in one of the koče (traditional Slovenian mountain chalets) at Pravljica na Veliki planini. I was about to write “bungalow”… but fifteen years spent in French Polynesia inevitably leave their mark.
Rok, our host, gave us a warm welcome. As evening falls, there’s a gentle knock at the door. Standing on the doorstep, he hands us a selection of local specialties prepared with ingredients from the plateau. A simple gesture that perfectly captures the warmth of Slovenian hospitality.

ROADBOOK:
Literally meaning “the Great Pasture”, Velika Planina is a vast plateau perched at over 1,600 metres above sea level, renowned for its spectacular hiking trails. To fully experience the mountain’s unique atmosphere, spend a night in one of the traditional koče, available to rent all year round.
Life and Traditions on Velika Planina
Here, time seems to flow at a different pace…
The shepherds still make their cheese as they always have. The sound of cowbells echoes across the alpine meadows, while clouds drift slowly above the wooden rooftops.
It feels as though nothing has changed.

The Magic of Velika Planina
I caught myself looking through the viewfinder less often. Ten years ago, I mostly photographed what I saw. Today, I try to photograph what I feel.
The silence. The wind. The scent of the alpine meadows. Footsteps in the fresh snow. Mana’s curious gaze as he discovered this vast playground.
All the things no photograph can truly capture, yet some somehow manage to make us feel.

Marija Snežna: The Church of St. Mary of the Snows
Nestled among the wooden chalets stands the small Church of St. Mary of the Snows.

This small church has witnessed the scars of history. Destroyed during the Second World War and later rebuilt, it now watches quietly over the plateau.
Its modest silhouette has become an inseparable part of the landscape.
Like so many places here, it reminds us that time moves on… yet some places seem to stand beyond it.
Nasvidenje Slovenia
Ten years later, Velika Planina had lost none of its magic. If anything, it felt even more special. I already knew I would return.

As I left, I realised that the places that leave the deepest mark on us are not always the ones where we spend the most time.
They are the ones that continue to live within us, long after we’ve gone.
ROADBOOK:
Two ways to reach Velika Planina:
- By cable car… for those who prefer to take it easy.
- On foot from the Rakove Ravni car park – a beautiful hike, with a reward well worth the effort.
