July 6, 2011. It is just after 8 a.m. when the aircraft door opens.
Arrival at Kabul International Airport (KAIA)
A wave of scorching heat hits us the moment we step outside. I walk onto the tarmac, surrounded by soldiers from the French Foreign Legion’s 2nd Foreign Parachute Regiment (2e REP), who are replacing their comrades in Kapisa. We quickly board the armoured vehicles.
A few minutes later, a long convoy of VAB armoured personnel carriers sets off towards Warehouse military camp. I’m torn between excitement and fear. Ten percent of one, ninety percent of the other… or perhaps the other way around. I couldn’t honestly say.
Beside me, a sergeant from the French Foreign Legion’s 2nd Foreign Parachute Regiment (2e REP) is fast asleep. There are six of us crammed inside the armoured vehicle. The temperature must be close to fifty degrees Celsius. He seems completely oblivious to it all.
I was there to film a documentary about Polynesian soldiers serving in the French Army. Yet it wasn’t that documentary that would leave the deepest mark on me.
It was the Afghan people.
My First Cup of Chai in Afghanistan
The next morning, after a good night’s sleep… and an earthquake, I push open the door of Waze’s little shop. Weakened by Ramadan, he welcomes me with a broad smile (though he becomes very shy the moment a camera appears). In the height of summer, temperatures hover around 45°C (113°F) in the shade. His first words are neither a question nor an attempt to make a sale:
— Salam. Chai?
TRAVEL NOTE:
Chai (چای) means “tea” in Dari, one of the most widely spoken languages in Afghanistan.
More than just a drink, chai is an invitation to sit down, slow down, and share a moment together. Turning down a cup of tea can be seen as declining someone’s hospitality.
It’s one of the first words I learn in Afghanistan. A few minutes later, Wase places a small steaming glass in front of me. Not a Lipton tea bag. Real tea, brewed with the time and care it deserves.
I didn’t know it then, but that cup of tea would be the first of many unforgettable encounters…
Places That Left a Mark on Me…
Places That Left a Mark on Me…
Where Mana Is
Visual artist and traveler.
In search of places that radiate a unique kind of magic.
Some call it mana.